We always laugh about before I could drive and when we went on holiday via trains and buses. We certainly didn’t take the amount we now pack into the car! Warm clothing; cool clothing; a variety of footwear; hoodies; waterproofs and emergency food!
So day one setting off from Aisha’s house we drove up to
Beamish in Durham and not Northumberland as I found out when I stated this on
Twitter and the lynch mob came for me! We had been there twice before; once when
there was only the town and pit village built; then when the manor house was
being built and they had added the farm and this time with the manor house
complete and the locomotive running; can’t wait for them to finish the church.
I’d read about them salvaging it but couldn’t believe that had been 20 years
previously and although the shell was built they need millions more for completion.
We had a bit of a wait to get in
but not too bad considering it’s the school holidays! It cost £17.50 a ticket
but that lasts for 12 months so we will definitely be returning as it’s not too
far to go. We arrived at lunchtime and to beautiful sunshine. Only stopping to
eat sitting on the grass we spent 5 hours there. It was great to see how giddy
Aisha was; glad to see the little girl is still in there! There
are a number of trams and trolley buses to get around so our first stop was the
locomotive. After setting down there is a short walk to where a locomotive runs
a short journey and we were fortunate to have information narrated by a very
humourous worker covered in coal dust!
Love steam locomotives and no I don’t have memories of when they used to
run like that although the 5 hour journeys from Hull to London in the 70s
weren’t far from it!
After a few photo shots and trip to the loo, luckily plenty dotted about,
we then embarked on a return walk to the road and up another path to the manor
house with someone demonstrating spinning with a large, old spinning wheel and
another baking biscuits in the kitchen. Upstairs was larger than expected with
a bedroom containing double & single bed then through to another small
bedroom with single bed; a bedroom with a four poster bed and a bathroom with
metal bath. There was also a room for the wheat to dry out and another hanging
meat mainly still whole; pheasants etc unfortunately real for authenticity!Fortunately we were ready to move on just as a
number of loud, boisterous children appeared; I mean really who lets children
in! Back on another tram and into the town.
It was much quieter than expected so easy to get round. We went into the newly
build Masonic hall, eat your heart out Dan Brown! Then into the bank where the
‘banker’ was relaying stories and I had a moment of feeling old with
pre-decimalisation money that I remembered well! Then over to the Co-operative
with again many products I remembered well, a place holding old motor vehicles,
a hardware store and a haberdashery. Now this did bring back memories as I
worked at a place in Hull, called Kestenbaums, when I was still at school for a
Saturday job; this sold reams of material often to foreigners who were docked
there making the most of duty free. We
couldn’t delay the inevitable any longer so straight over to the sweet shop where
queues became an unknown to many there! Into the back watching honeycomb being made alongside grasping hands into the
free samples, no taking of a small piece there but handfuls being scooped up!
Don’t you just love the British greed! We waited and eventually the plate was emptied
of crumbs and germs and fresh larger chunks put out of which we managed to grab
a piece each ahead of the next vultures! Feeling rather thirsty, of course that was the
reason, we went into the pub that also enabled a chance to sit down. One of the
few remaining pubs still selling pickled eggs and pickled onions on the
counter, I didn’t partake and the drinks were at today’s prices, cheek! From there we
sauntered past the houses of the dentist, solicitor etc and to the railway
station. Nothing was running but we enjoyed the peace of being the only people
there, others were by-passing to go to the fair rides. We went into the ladies
to discover they weren’t for use just for show with old style wooden long seat
with hole cut out leading to a dry pit. No wonder people wonder about folks
north of Watford!!! Back into town in time for the final lift
back to the exit. Up some steps, through the shop and out to the car park. For
those who have never been there is far more to see including the pit village
with the school, the farm and printers.
Having spoken to @RichardHesketh1 on Twitter our place to
stay was recommended, The Old Post Office at Warkworth in Northumberland, so
not too far to go. We managed to park opposite and entered to a very warm
welcome. Having taken in our cases we quickly changed and went to find the
recommended place to eat. This was Zecca in Amble. It was busy for a Tuesday
evening but we were able to be seated. We were amused by 3 women on the
adjacent table, 1 in particular who couldn’t take her eyes off us! In previous
years this would have annoyed me but these days I find it amusing and we just
played to it offering her a photo to take away!
We had breads with olive oil and
balsamic for starters but couldn’t eat it all, I think they were serving the
same amount for each table no matter how many were seated. Aisha had a
margherita pizza that came with a lovely thin base and I ordered the squash
cannelloni and although the menu stated in an onion cream sauce it was in a
cheese sauce but was delicious. We were too full for desserts with Aisha taking
half away in a box. We got chatting to our waitress to discover she is about to
become a student at Leeds University so were able to tell her of the student
life she could expect, hopefully we allayed some of her fears or maybe she’ll
change her mind! With full stomachs we returned to the B&B. I was initially
concerned I may not sleep being on the main street and having the window open
due to the heat but all the walking and fresh air had knocked me out! Breakfast
next morning and soya milk provided as requested with choice of cereal followed
by 2 different vegetarian sausages, mushrooms, tomato and beans in a separate
bowl on the plate keeping everything neat. The eggs were from their own hens
but due to attempting to go vegan we declined. There was 1 other component
described as a hash brown but it was actually a small rosti but seasoned with
something, we both left these but didn’t mention it as the rest of the
breakfast was lovely. We then had toast, paid the bill, packed the car and on
our way.
The next stop was over to Lindisfarne after checking tide
times again and again, somewhere else we hadn’t visited for years. There is now
a car park for tourists and although on the edge not far from the centre. We
did discover there were places we could have parked but can understand why they
don’t want the roads packed. We walked around and felt it was much smaller than
we remembered. There are places to see; the Lindisfarne Centre; Lindisfarne
Priory and Lindisfarne Castle all with entrance fees. We looked around the few
shops but didn’t go in any tourist places, taking photos from the outside. We
walked part way to the castle and sat in the sun by the sea. We had gone over
at low tide in the morning and couldn’t return until 5.00pm at low tide again.
The time went much quicker than expected. We did visit the Lindisfarne Mead and
having tasted the new version, bought some! Many years ago I bought a mini
bottle of mead but only ever tasted a small amount to discover although of
honey taste it was very thick and not to my liking, oh how it has changed. Now
it’s much thinner, clearer and more of a thin liqueur. I also got a Celtic
throw.
Once the waters had parted it was back onto the mainland
and up to Hawick in the Scottish Borders. We wanted to arrive in time for the evening
meal. The place we stay is Whitchester Christian Retreat and anyone who follows
me on Twitter will know I’m not religious but we absolutely love this gem of a
place. On the many occasions we have stayed we have met many different people
from different religions, none of whom have been overt and on one occasion we
sat in the lounge enjoying the guitar playing from the prayer room. From the
first visit they have kept a card with dietary needs and this has meant we have
been able to go with no worries about food. We have stayed at different times
of the year and many times between Christmas and New Year. We hadn’t been for
about 4 years. We were greeted by a man and my first question was whether
Evelyn was still there, no she had left last December. At this we were a little
worried as she had been there a long time with a warm welcome and great
cooking. The guy’s wife came through and talked to us about the food situation,
she was a little concerned having only taken over in May and probably not
having to accommodate the likes of us before. No worries she managed extremely
well. I had soup and Aisha had melon for starters and I had a carrot &
cashew loaf with vegetables with Aisha having a pasta dish with vegetables,
ironically if she had adapted the recipe slightly the carrot & cashew loaf
could have had the onion omitted and suited us both. However as previously, the
food was lovely. Dessert was plum crumble with vegan ice cream. We discovered through chatting that the woman, Joan, was wheat free so
that was easy as was the dairy free situation. A woman staying there was also
vegetarian so we didn’t feel too obscure! There
were also two ladies together and an older couple. We were quite humbled by
them as we overheard her saying she had never had asparagus and referred to the
kale as spinach. Through chatting we discovered it was their first visit there
and when we explained our road trip she thought us very adventurous, even more
so when I said that on our return I was to have a flying lesson. The woman who
was alone had had quite an eventful life. Everyone was so lovely. It’s hard to
describe being there, it’s the peacefulness and quiet no matter how many people
are staying. No TVs in the rooms means reading time and a sensible amount of
sleep. Thursday morning and breakfast
of cereal, beans on toast followed by toast and honey. This was served by Heather who had been there
for many years and filled us in on the changes there had been and the
difficulty finding someone to replace Evelyn after 25 years; she also gave us
Evelyn’s phone number.
We had booked 2 nights knowing we
wouldn’t rush around but relax. I didn’t want to drive too far so we went into
nearby Craike Forest. We parked up and went for a wander then back to the car
to sit and read. This was a luxury as our holidays are always so action packed.
We had taken lunch and sat at a picnic table in the sun. There were only a few
people around so we could enjoy the peace. It’s a place that conserves red
squirrels (not like in a jam!) but unfortunately we never saw any. Suddenly the
heavens opened as we packed everything into the car but it didn’t last long. We
drove to another area to pop to the loo and picked up a leaflet about the forest
to discover a walk about a mile long to a waterfall. The sun was shining again
so off we went. It was a lovely walk with a pounding waterfall at the end, all
the rivers were fast flowing from the amount of rain there has been this year.
Driving back to Hawick we kept
looking at the inviting river running at the side of the road. That road is
very narrow and any pull in places are for passing. Luckily we found an area
where we could park by a track to a field across the river. The river was in
two parts with a bit of an island in between where the tractor would be able to
cross. It was fast flowing but we decided to have a paddle. It was warm with
the sun shining and enough breeze not to be stifling. It wasn’t deep but deeper
than I could roll up my jeans for so off they came whilst Aisha put her cossie
on having left mine in the case! So the paddle became a wade and then a sit
down in the river. Had there been a deeper part close by the wild swimming list
would have grown. I have to say we were in full view of the road but only about
3 passing cars got to enjoy the treat!!! We popped into town to fill up with petrol and
tried to phone Evelyn but had to leave a message then back to Whitchester, in
time to change for tea again. I had a lovely broccoli soup but again Joan made
work for herself by making a different one for Aisha rather than serving us all
the same; leek & mushroom risotto with vegetables and a gorgeous honey
& cocoa sponge with ice cream. Ironically the bean chilli and rice was what
Joan expected us to eat but it didn’t go to waste as others chose it. We had
totally confused her as she had read on the card no mushrooms but that was for
the one time Craig went. Joan had asked if we liked beans, yes; rice, yes; then
said that she would have to add something for flavour and suggested chilli
although we did suggest herbs too. Ironic that the simple leek and mushroom
risotto was fine whether carnivore, vegetarian or vegan! Think she was
overthinking things but only with the very best of intentions! The phone signal is hit and miss and when we returned to the room picked
up a message from Evelyn, sorry to have missed us and just back from Edinburgh.
Again the rest of the evening was spent reading and a good night’s sleep. After
breakfast we settled the bill and left phoning Evelyn again. We arranged to
meet in a café and chatted for about 2 hours, it was lovely to see her.
So straight up to Edinburgh, stopping only to eat lunch,
in the car; we were carrying rice cakes, pate and crisps. We found the place
where we were staying, glad to get somewhere having booked very last minute.
This part of the trip was prompted by @mrstevenallen on Twitter and wanting to
go to see his show, Some News, having featured on his podcast. Well what can I say, we were
greeted by a small chap in bare feet and very verbal and immediately I thought
of ‘four in a bed’. I distinctly remember someone walking round in bare feet!
He explained about the proximity of the buses and that there was an ipad and
laptop available in the dining room. We had been looking forward to the use of
wifi but realised this was the option. He made a passing remark that the dining
room contained 2 tables less than the number of guests…would we even get
breakfast! Then the room, obviously a family room with 2 double beds and a
single with small shower room. It was fine but would have benefitted from the
removal of 1 double bed. The chap, Kenny, highlighted the X Box in the room. As
he left we noticed the brown sheets, again another feature on one of the
programmes and the fabulous satin style duvet covers and pillowcases, mmm!!! We were only going to sleep in it for 1 night
so we could cope. Had we read Trip Advisor we would have missed a comedic
treat! We were lucky to get a parking place in a small side road as this place,
Mayfield Lodge, is on a main road with double yellow lines. We took in our
cases to the room and left to catch a bus into the centre. So
we got off the bus and in amongst the Fringe Festival. The first street
performer we stopped to watch was performing right next to a gold post
box….photo opportunity. Then we went to the booking office to collect our
tickets and a wander down the Royal Mile. Normally being accosted every half a metre
would have been frustrating but this was a show in itself as people weren’t
only dishing out leaflets but giving lots of information about each show and
some from the performers themselves.
We had already found the location of Captain Taylor’s
Coffee House where the Some News show
was. It was an early show at 5.30p.m.so we went downstairs and when the room
was emptied from the previous show we got a seat. Then Steven came in to set up
and I was able to introduce myself, another tweeter met in real life! The show
was very funny and topical. The audience was asked if anyone was in a
relationship and for how long, someone stated 9 months and Aisha stopped
everyone in their tracks by saying 13 years. The look on Steven’s face was
price-less, he then asked me her age! Our family genes have caused some
hilarious situations! An hour of
laughter away from reality!
From
here we went to find a restaurant we had found on the Internet and with no
bookings taken during the fringe we knew we needed to get there quickly. We
arrived at David Bann to a small queue. 2 people were shown to a table leaving
a group of 3 and another couple. The turnover was quick without anyone looking
like they were rushed through their meal. Soon we were seated and not driving I
was able to have a lager. Being a vegetarian restaurant there was plenty of
choice and all ingredients were listed. We had starters of broccoli and smoked
tofu fritters with banana chutney and plum sauce. Hard to express…gorgeous, so
tasty; followed by aubergine, cashew & chick pea koftas with coriander rice,
pineapple chutney and yoghurt raita, this was another vegan dish and many chefs
can learn a lesson from this along with the cynics who ask ‘what do you eat’!
Dessert was orange segment jelly on a lemon cake with coconut sorbet and
Amaretto soaked figs. We need 1 of these restaurants in Leeds! We rolled out of there and having seen no bus
stops with the number bus we expected to take back we caught a black cab! We
would have loved to walk around longer or possibly take in another show but we
were stuffed! A bit of TV that night
then sleep! And so to breakfast; I questioned Kenny as to whether I had mentioned
soya milk, having sorted a number of places, apparently I had. He then appeared
with a carton and placed it on the table. We were eating cereal wondering why
we hadn’t been asked what cooked breakfast we wanted. We heard a couple at
another table request no beans etc and wondered what to expect. Well our bowls
were removed and then our breakfast arrived; an egg, about 6 beans, half a
tomato; a couple of mushrooms and dubious looking sausage. I asked if it was vegetarian
not remembering if I’d mentioned this over the phone on booking. The response
‘oh yes they certainly taste vegetarian’ in a derogatory manner followed by
stating he had had so many vegetarians that the next ones would be on Quorn
having used the pack of 75 catering ones! Well shame we weren’t a day later as
at least we know what is in Quorn. Poor Aisha left her sausage after 1 taste so
only ate the 6 beans….I ate the sausage but still wasn’t sure about it and even
ended up eating the egg! At least there was plenty of toast including a muffin!
Whilst eating this a man and
woman appeared and Kenny said ‘I told you to come down at 7.45am’ at which
there was a quiet titter until he followed it by saying ‘I’m not joking there’s
only 1 table for 4, you should have come down earlier, you’ll have to come
back!’ Uncomfortable and we were glad we were leaving! We got our things
together and decided to pay in cash, being quicker. As he was still busy
running around we waited patiently and the 2 people reappeared for their
breakfast, what we couldn’t understand was the fact that there were only 2 of
them not 4 and earlier there had been 2 tables spare. Kenny did comment to
another table that they were Russian…great example of UK hospitality for them! Whilst
standing there we also spotted the half hidden wifi password! I asked for the bill and he said ‘£90 to
you’…funny as that would be the same price to anyone, however if the room had
been filled it would have commanded £225, extortionate. We handed over the
cash…no bill, no receipt and later discovered through Trip Advisor that he runs
it for a couple who own it and used to run it…don’t want to cast aspersions but
he’s running it on the cheap and possibly not putting it all through the
books! We walked away and laughed!
I was very excited by our next stop…Roslyn Chapel…yes featuring
in Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code. There was a £9 entry fee and looking over we felt
we wouldn’t need much time to look round, how wrong we were. We asked the lady
at the entrance about the effect of the book, something she must get asked
hundreds of times but was very obliging. Pre the book they had about 30,000
visitors a year, when the book came out it was 30,000 per month and at that
time everyone was a volunteer and quite elderly but they coped. It’s settled
now but they still have around 200,000 a year. We chose the right year as the
metal canopy covering the chapel, enabling it to dry out has recently been
removed and the new entrance and shop newly built. Wow, wow, wow what an
amazing place with fabulous history and such intricate masonry work. The place
is like a story book with many interpretations incorporating the Knights
Templar, Masons, Pagans, Christianity, the family of St Clair and much, much
more. The great thing is that such old, old carvings tell many tales that
cannot be ignored. There were a lot of visitors but not packed and yet Aisha
and I both felt the same. I’ve been in many churches, chapels and cathedrals both
empty and with visitors and always felt that eerie, churchy feeling but this
was different, it felt comfortable not religious. It was like being inside a
living sculpture. When Cromwell was destroying many places of worship he left
this place alone as did many others through the years. We were there for about
3 hours and could have spent a lot longer, impossible to see everything. We
never had time to go in the glen or to the castle ruins. The prospect of the
longest drive of the trip made us move.
Grasmere was going to be the next stop but we decided to
stay sooner as we wanted to go to Long Meg standing stones. The great advantage
of driving through Scotland is the amazing countryside. We reached Penrith and
decided it wasn’t for us so moved on. We saw nowhere suitable with vacancies so
Grasmere it was and Long Meg would have to wait for another trip. We decided we
may as well go to the place we stopped at on our last trip. We thought if they
had vacancies we may get a reduction, no such luck, the price includes dinner,
bed & breakfast and they did offer a reduction for B&B but this meant
the 4 course meal was very reasonable so we booked in. We were given a better
room than last time and glad the driving had stopped. Again we just had time to
change having booked an early table. A
starter of goat’s cheese pate for me with juice for Aisha followed by a lemon
and orange sorbet then stir fry vegetables on a bed of noodles that was really
tasty but served with vegetables…why when it was a dish in itself! However I
did enjoy a couple of the new potatoes. Dessert of apple crumble and custard
finished the meal off nicely. I realised once upstairs I was shattered, helped
along by a pint of Stella and fell to sleep around 8.30pm; yes the gigging,
party going rebel; unfortunately was awake at 3.00am. I then cat napped.
And so to breakfast, on booking in I’d
mentioned soya milk but it was cows’ in the jug. We asked a waitress who stated
it was soya but being Spanish we weren’t sure she understood and thought she
had said semi milk. We asked again and she then told us she had put some on one
of the tables but didn’t offer to change it. We spoke to the other waitress,
also Spanish and she returned with the carton and a jug. The breakfast menu
mentioned nothing about vegetarian options but on enquiring there was
vegetarian sausages then she mentioned beans, not on the menu, so we had the
safe option of beans on toast with toast & jam to finish. We
decided to stay a while in Grasmere after checking out. We went wandering and found
the Gingerbread shop, that’s the shop selling it not made of it, didn’t open
until 12.30pm being Sunday. Years previously we had walked together up the
river and at another time gone skinny dipping in another part. Well we parked
up and headed to the river. We could hardly believe this was the same river it
was absolutely gushing and much deeper. We put our toes in at the edge and that
was it then we walked along the path at the side instead picking the few wild
raspberries that were left along the way! Back to the Gingerbread shop just as people
started to queue. After purchasing enough to last a week, well a few days for
us, we headed off again.
As it was Sunday we were hoping to find somewhere to eat
a ‘carvery’ dinner, vegetarian option of course. This was when realisation hit,
where have all the local pubs gone! We pushed on to Windermere avoiding the
tourist area and walking into the town unfortunately in the rain. No pubs so we
checked out the 2 cafes we found, no, nothing suitable. By this time it was
getting late, we were very hungry and conscious some places would stop serving
at 2.00pm. We did have food in the car but I was on a mission. We headed
towards the Dales hoping to book into a lovely B&B in Askrigg where we’d
stayed before. As we turned a corner there it was, a pub with a placard saying
food served all day. Good job no-one was behind me as I quickly swerved into
the car park. We asked if they were still
serving food to be told they were but the carvery had finished so I asked if
there were any vegetables left being vegetarian to be told we could have the veggie
option, brie, mushroom & spinach
parcel with vegetables and it was sooooo worth the wait. There was a set
price to include a pudding but we had no room for anything else, however we did
get it for less. The pub was Moorcock Inn 5 miles outside of Hawes. On to Askrigg and no vacancies but we had
seen a couple of places in Hawes so back we went. Parking was quite difficult
on the street but we squeezed in. The place was a B&B and café, Laburnum,
and very reasonable at £30 each for the night. With an aching back the power
shower was a great relief. Yes I haven’t mentioned showers or baths before but
I also haven’t mentioned all my loo visits either. Although the bath at
Whitchester is worth a mention as it was huge! Back to my book and listening to the heavy
rain. We decided that as we had reached the Dales a day early and so close to
home that we would return home the next day. We had no need to find somewhere
for tea as with a late dinner we just ate what we had with us. And
so to our final breakfast and the best one yet, sausages, mushrooms, tomato and
beans, the sausages were so tasty we asked what they were; Quorn Cumberland, a
vegetarian friend advised them they were the best and they were lovely. We had
questioned soya milk when booking in and the lady had said that she wasn’t sure
if she would catch the shop so we said that we had some chocolate rice milk we
could use. But no, there it was, a carton of soya milk. We chatted about the
Olympic impact on business and they had been hit hard. Boris should be made to
meet these business people who have lost out it’s not only London but rippled
far beyond. The fringe certainly wasn’t heaving as was the same for
everywhere.
Well we weren’t going to waste our final day so we drove
over to Hubberholme but again only paddled in the edge of the river, gushing
far more than usual. The place we parked was full of dips and huge puddles and
parking on the only flat part hoped to keep others at bay. Usually along there
it’s packed with cars. A couple came and went, parking at the edge and we
enjoyed the sun and sheltered in the car when the clouds brought a chill. Again
enjoying peaceful reading time and for me a bit of a snooze! We
were considering leaving when our decision was made as a Subaru went roaring past with a caravan attached and
then came back hovering by our parking area and unloading a number of very
noisy kids. So off we went and there in my back mirror was the guy reversing
the caravan onto extremely uneven ground!
We had already decided I would stay at Aisha’s so before
getting to the house we went for a chippy supper getting something for Craig as
he was working late. The dog was pleased to see us. Next morning
my angel of a daughter produced cereal, followed by veggie sausages, bacon,
hash browns and beans then toast and jam, a fitting end to the holiday. Having been to Roslyn Chapel we decided to watch the Da Vinci Code, 1st
time for Aisha. After lunch I fell asleep exhausted and still in my pyjamas.
Aisha provided a lovely tea and I left about 9.00pm.
It was good to get home to the cats but I missed Aisha
straight away.
It’s Wednesday as I’m writing this and back to reality
and an empty fridge so I’ve just had a tea of burger mix made into meatless
balls and cooked in onion gravy on top of mashed potato and peas!
Do I really have to face the supermarket!!!
Ooo I’ve just seen someone has a cottage available on
Skye for next week starting Saturday………………………………
