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Tuesday 23 April 2013

Over the sea to Skye

During the week after Easter weekend I took another holiday to the Isle of Skye with my daughter.
A drive of 9 hours including a couple of stops, one at The Real Food Cafe to devour a delicious lentil burger with chips.
Yes it's a long journey but we're not talking busy motorways! Once we are on our way the holiday has started.
So we arrived at the best possible B&B...The Old Croft House with its vegetarian and vegan fayre for breakfast and home made vegan baking to return to at the end of the day.
We were determined to try and go wild swimming but other than that we had no plans.
So each day after breakfast with many choices, we let it settle and set off never really sure of our destination! This was after waking to peace and quiet, the birds tweeting and eating at the feeders; the pet hens clucking; the sheep wandering close by and the hares frolicking; we didn't see any deer this time; no sea eagles either although the possibility of one in the distance!
We knew there were still plenty of places to explore that we hadn't managed to see the last two years we had been there.

So we set off to find the walk to go over to Oronsay Island. Although the whole of the island is beautiful there are secret places tucked away but a walk is necessary.
We parked up and walked through some rough terrain until we came upon a gate, through that, downwards through a narrow gap and onto the shores with its strip of land, water rippling at either side, welcoming us to walk across onto a deserted island bar a few sheep. Yes an island to ourselves and it was magical and the sun was beating down while twitter had told me that morning that it was still snowing in England; 16 degrees there!
So as we took photos and wandered the island we heard something in the distance and looked across  the water to see a quad bike heading down the narrow gap and coming towards us, it was a young farmer and he toured the island checking his sheep and at times coming very close to dropping into the sea...that island was certainly not flat!
He headed towards us to explain the tide would be up in about an hour unless we fancied spending longer there....three hours if we waited for low tide again, this was very tempting but we had no provisions. He told us his sheep were ready to lamb.
So we sauntered around watching the sea birds and jumping at the screech of a jet fighter whizzing over our heads and awaiting the second but none came....when I lived in North Yorkshire they always flew in pairs!
We headed back looking at the shells and stones and there are some amazing ones.

Each day we drove around a few places stopping for photo shoots and taking walks so went back exhausted. We had taken some food so ate back in the room most nights.

Another place we visited was Elgol in the south of the island that we hadn't previously explored. We could park close to the beach there. Now don't be thinking white washed sandy beaches, there are some like that hidden away; Coral Beach that we've visited before but here we were on a beach of stones and rocks. We walked down to the sea edge but waited to put our feet in later after sitting under a huge hole-pitted, overhanging rock, on a ledge. Over more stones and rocks to sit and put our feet into the crystal clear water. There were three photographers close to the water's edge taking photos of the sea rolling in...no two days the same.
We took many photos ourselves, many I've posted on Twitter. On this particular day some were 'posed' ...we never stopped laughing!
Afterwards we drove along Sleat, the southern part of the island where it is greener and not as rugged. It is still beautiful but not as interesting in my opinion although down a winding road we came across some wild looking horses and fed them.

Another day we revisited the Fairy Pools nestling under the snow covered Cuillin Hills. This is one of the few places where you come across other humans but never many and for us the most we saw were as we left. Here you can walk for as long or as little as you like with the river meandering along the side and pools at various intervals. This is also rough terrain as is most of the island but the air is so fresh and that day was another very warm one. We were looking at which pool we should go wild swimming in; Sam at the B&B had warned us they had been covered in ice recently. There were still thick chunks along the sides but that could never deter us!
So we went down to a pool that looked deep enough and stripped, this time wearing swimming costumes and a tee shirt, as if that would keep us warm!
We stepped onto the stones at the edge and slowly walked in and it was freezing...I went deeper and leant forward to swim and although by now I was wet up to my neck it just took my breath away so that is as far as I could go! But it was fun and invigorating! During this time a few people went past, some just smiling and others making comments. A Scottish family went past and told us we must be very brave but mad! So we sat a while in the sun  then dried and dressed. We walked further along sussing out the rest of the pools for next time! As we headed back the same family were ahead of us and seeing us coming the dad and son removed socks and shoes and ventured in but not for long. The dad questioned how we had gone in so deep when his feet were freezing...as he left rather quickly! Then the long trek back to the car but amongst such beauty it wasn't a chore.

We started one day with our regular shopping trip in Portree to get supplies of soy candles of varying aromas and hand made soap with varying fragrances, all made locally on the island. Then to the Batik shop where I purchased a skirt and throw last year but this year a bandana. A tray of the very tasty chips from the local chippy and afterwards feeding the scraps to the seagulls who swooped and greedily took from my hand. Then toTalisker Bay again tucked away with a long worthwhile walk. Again amongst sheep and no humans. This beach has a mixture of sand and stones and the amazing patterns the sea leaves. No two ever the same and washed away to leave the next batch. Here the sea came rolling in very quickly and we actually didn't dip our feet; unusual.     

One evening we were looking forward to an Italian meal at a restaurant we had visited before but unfortunately found it closed. Sam later explained they just hadn't opened for the year yet...Easter on Skye isn't exactly busy so another portion of chips to tide us over then the last of the food back at the B&B! We would have gone to Ariba cafe but they now stop serving at 6.00pm so we saved that for another night. Well worth a visit...Jamaican Stew for me...yum!
The only other place we went to were the WeeTea Room for hot chocolate and home made banana cake and lemon drizzle cake...delicious! Then the Blue Shed Cafe for soup and a sandwich!

On our final evening we went to Edinbane Inn not for a wee dram of whiskey but a warming rum and coke whilst listening to the locals on fiddles, flute, guitar and accordion. A brilliant way to end the holiday.

Our journey back home was just as amazing. It started to snow very lightly as we left then into the highlands and as we drove higher the snow got thicker. Eventually the only non white area was the road. We knew that the road gets closed at times so were grateful to those who kept it open. Then as if by magic as we drove further and dropped down the snow eventually disappeared and the sun shone again! Then slowly back to reality until another year. Knowing a trip to the highlands is on the cards for later in the year is helping.



Tuesday 16 April 2013

Tapas Review...San Lucas Leeds

I was recently asked to attend an evening at San Lucas Tapas Restaurant in Leeds to write a blog review.
I went with a carnivore friend who tasted a number of dishes including the lamb which she stated was delicious but I went to check out the vegetarian choices.
Tortilla Espanola,  Bruschetta di Pomodoro, Caprese Salad, Patatas Bravos and Olives; bread while we waited. Four or five tapas is sufficient and all were around £4 or £4.50. It was what I expected of tapas, good choices, good value and tasty. It had only been open two weeks when I went but is finding its feet. Its not right in the centre but close to Millennium Square so easy to access and on an evening there is on street free parking. I would recommend a visit.